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Chad explores Switzerland by train
Staff member: Chad // Trip date: Aug 2011
Pasta, Strudel and Croissants
A 5 day progressive Swiss dinner by train
Buongiorno yesterday, Guten Morgen today, Bonjour tomorrow. But if you simply want to say Good
Morning you will be understood and welcomed. Such is the diversity of travelling in Switzerland. I was recently lucky enough to discover what an amazing country Switzerland really is. Lugano to Lausanne, three languages, three distinct regions, yet one country and not a Euro in sight! Never has there been a better time to visit Switzerland especially with our dollar virtually being one for one with the Swiss franc, making it an inexpensive European destination.
It really does not matter what time of year you visit, just go.... The different seasons offer something
unique, you won't be disappointed. Although spring is my pick; no wind, clear skies, snow top mountains, fresh crisp air, flowers in the meadows and best of all no crowds (better value as well).
I began my five day journey in Lugano in the Swiss lakes region. A laid back picturesque lakeside town, in the mountains, not far from the Italian border. So naturally the Italian food was a focal point - I wasn't disappointed. There is something about eating Italian outside at a table on the pavement overlooking a lake that makes the food oh so much more enjoyable. I had to get out of here before I put on too much weight...
You catch a funicular railway to get from the town centre to the station, a very novel way to start one's rail adventure. My train took me through the Gotthard Pass passing snow-capped mountains, cascading waterfalls, green valleys, historical churches and castles then alongside huge lakes before arriving in Lucerne- a stunning introduction to Switzerland.
Lucerne: One of my favourite historical cities, with its famous landmark the 14th century Chapel Bridge. Located at the end of Lake Lucerne amongst gently rolling hills it really is the heart of Switzerland, culturally as well as geographically. The first thing you notice is the signage, the food, even the way locals dress has changed to German yet we are still in the same country.
The impressive station is in the centre of town so you can stay for as little as a day (lockers on platform) and still get to see everything simply by walking, although one day is really not enough to do it justice. This is a place to soak up the atmosphere, discover the old town with its historic squares and fresco clad buildings, some dating back to the middle ages.
From Lucerne you can take a day excursion to Mt Titlis. Titlis Rotair is not just a cable car ride this is
an adventure. It all starts from the minute you board the train that meanders around the lake before
passing through a valley full of traditional Swiss mountain houses, green meadows, and towering mountains arriving in the pretty town of Engelberg, well worth a look around before transferring to the Titlis Rotair cable car.
The great part about the trip up Mt Titlis is it changes all the time, not just the scenery but the actual
cable car itself. Different shapes, sizes and viewing experiences with the final car rotating to give you
a 360 degree views as you proceed to the peak.
Shopping at 10,000ft/3020 metres is a buzz as is enjoying a cold beer with a meal whilst taking hundreds of photos to make those at home jealous. On a clear day you can see back down to Engelberg and across the Alps. Walk over the snow to the Ice Flyer chair lift for spectacular views over the glacier crevasses.
I can highly recommend staying overnight at the Berghotel Trubsee Alpine Lodge near the top of Mt
Titlis. This is a gem. Naturally there are views from every window but the rate includes a 4 course meal that far exceeded anything I expected so high up in the world. The staff were very welcoming
and the facilities exceptional. Even has a cinema room, free internet access (faster than my connection at home!). You feel special once the daytime crowds have gone, it's just you and a few
other guests left to enjoy the tranquillity and peacefulness of being high up in the mountains. The alpine bar is cosy and authentic in décor and a great place to end the day.
Waking up to the sun lit mountain tops is a memory that will last a life time. Alas it's time to go but
the adventure continues, on your decent have some fun by trying to name all the country flags on the Gondolas, bonus points for being first to spot Australia, minus points for NZ!
From here I journey back to Lucerne, a quick change of platforms to board the Golden Pass Panoramic Train to my next stop Grindelwald. This is where you really appreciate having paid just that little bit more for the first class rail pass, you get to experience the panoramic carriages ... they're awesome. The floor to ceiling windows give you a full view of the mountain tops without the need to lean out of the window. You feel you are part of the scenery. Did I mention the leather seats? Another of the world's great train rides.
Grindelwald - A bucket list destination, the ultimate Swiss mountain village.
The Belvedere. From the street your first impression is ' this is not Swiss' , nor is the name but as soon as you enter this 107 year old, 4 star family run hotel you realise you made the right choice in
accommodation. The staff immediately make you feel, not just welcome, but as if you are a returning family member. The rooms are spacious, very well appointed and the views are just spectacular. You are totally surrounded by snow topped mountains. If you don't feel like dining in the understated but excellent hotel restaurant you are just a short walk from the village centre, where there are an abundance of culinary delights to tempt even the fussiest eater. The Belvedere is the perfect base to explore all this region has to offer and after a hard day sightseeing, hiking or mountain exploring you can ease away any tension with a massage or a soak in the outdoor heated spa. This hotel has been in the same family since it was built which is what I really liked about it, as the Hauser family touches show up in so many ways - including on my return home a traditional style newspaper format newsletter.
A highlight of visiting Grindelwald is the Jungfraujoch - The Top of Europe. Your train journey begins
in the valley stopping at tiny villages before entering the base of the famous Eiger mountain. You
may be tempted to put your camera away at this stage but don't....the train stops inside the mountain so you can get out to take in the views only serious mountain climbers have had access to before. Windows have been cut into the north face of the Eiger it's quite eerie looking straight down the face to the valley floor below trying to imagine what it must be like to be outside only held on by a thin rope.
The adventure has only just begun. Once you arrive at the world's highest station you have a multitude of things to do and experience, including going for a walk on the glacier. I set off for an early morning hike over the snow. There is nothing more exhilarating especially when the sun is out. Long live digital cameras, because you never stop taking pictures, everywhere you look is awe inspiring. The ice palace is worth exploring as well as just relaxing with a coffee taking in the tranquillity of this unique destination. I recommend taking the first morning (staff) train, you avoid the crowds, clear skies and you feel like you have the mountain to yourself.
I'd had enough wurst and strudel time for some French cuisine. From Grindelwald I journeyed down
the valley to Interlaken and just when I thought I'd seen it all I was proven wrong as I re-joined the Golden Pass Panoramic train to Zweissimmen - Gstaad - Montreaux - Lausanne. Only this time, forget the panoramic carriages catch 'The Classic' with its historic carriages, winged arm chairs, wood panelling, bay windows and waitress service with full menu (in French!). Not to mention constantly changing scenery there was never a dull moment. The couple if front of me said it all as they sat down - "I don't care what it costs this is one place we just have to have a good bottle of red to compliment the ambience". This train was the highlight of my short but memorable Swiss trip.
Lausanne is perched above Lake Geneva halfway between Montreux and Geneva. An unusual city, as
the city centre is up the hill away from the shore. To do it justice I recommend walking the historical
streets, combined with a bus/metro pass to get to points further afield. French influences everywhere, the language, the architecture, the food, the dress and the lively street bars and cafes yet still Swiss - the best of both worlds. I loved this place, you could easily stay here for several days and it would make the perfect base for exploring the Lake Geneva region. And just an hour train trip to Geneva international airport, my point of departure, with enough time to stock up on my newly acquired addiction...Swiss chocolate!
Finally; A Swiss Rail Pass is the only way to really see the country. Excellent value, it pays for itself in as little as two journeys, not just trains but buses and ferries too. I highly recommend paying the
little bit extra for the First Class Pass (or keep an eye out for off season free upgrade specials). Swiss
trains really do live up to their reputation for being efficient, quiet, comfortable and very helpful staff throughout the network. The beauty of train travel is everyone gets to see the scenery, no parking problems, no high fuel prices, all stations are right in the centre of town and the Swiss rail network is so comprehensive you can get to most of the small villages as well as cities, tourist spots and airports.
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